Hanging church old Cairo
Officially called the Church of the Virgin Mary, the Hanging Church resides in the heart of Old Cairo. It is built on top of the southern entrance gate of the Babylon Fortress built in Rome and gets its name from the fact that its nave is suspended above a corridor.
This unique location gives the church the impression of being suspended in midair, a spectacle that would have been even more impressive when it was first built when the ground level was several meters lower than it is today. The Arabic name of the church, al-Muallaqah, is also roughly translated as “The Suspended”.
Hanging Church history:
The current Hanging Church is believed to date back to the Patriarchate of Isaac of Alexandria, a Coptic pope who held office during the 7th century. Before that, another church existed on the same site, built sometime during the 3rd century as a place of worship for the soldiers who inhabited the Roman fortress.
The fascinating past of the church makes it one of the oldest places of Christian worship in Egypt. It has been rebuilt several times since the 7th century, with the most extensive restoration taking place under Pope Abraham during the 10th century.
Throughout its history, the Hanging Church has continued to be one of the most important bastions of the Coptic Christian Church. In 1047, it was designated as the official residence of the Coptic Orthodox Pope after the Muslim conquest of Egypt caused the Egyptian capital to be moved from Alexandria to Cairo.
Around the same time, Pope Christodolos caused controversy and internal strife within the Coptic Church by choosing to be consecrated in the Hanging Church even though consecrations were traditionally carried out in the Church of Saints Sergius and Bacchus.
Pope Christodolos’ decision set a precedent, and then several patriarchs decided to be elected, enthroned, and even buried in the Hanging Church.
The Hanging Church is known as the site of several apparitions of Mary, the most famous of which is related to the Mokattam Mountain Miracle. In the 10th century, Pope Abraham was asked to demonstrate the validity of her religion to the ruling caliph, al-Muizz. Al-Muizz devised a test based on the Bible verse in which Jesus says: «Truly I tell you that if you have faith as small as a mustard seed, you can say to this mountain:» Move from here to there «and it will move «. Accordingly, al-Muizz asked Abraham to move near Mokattam Mountain through the power of prayer alone.
Abraham asked for the three-day grace, which he spent praying for help in the Hanging Church. On the third day, he was visited by the Virgin Mary, who told him to find a one-eyed tanner named Simon, who would give him the power to perform the miracle. Abraham found Simon, and after traveling to the mountain and saying the words prescribed by the tanner, the mountain was raised. By witnessing this miracle, the Caliph recognized the truth of Abraham’s religion. Today, Mary continues to be the focus of worship in the Hanging Church.
Hanging Church today
To get to the Hanging church, visitors must enter through iron doors into a courtyard decorated with biblical mosaics. At the other end of the courtyard, a flight of 29 steps leads to the carved wooden doors of the church and the beautiful façade of two towers. The facade is a modern addition, dating from the 19th century. Inside, the church is divided into three main corridors, with three sanctuaries located at the eastern end. From left to right, these sanctuaries are dedicated to Saint George, the Virgin Mary, and Saint
John the Baptist. Each is decorated with an elaborate lampshade inlaid with ebony and ivory.
One of the most notable features of the Hanging Church is the ceiling, which is constructed of domed wood and is intended to resemble the interior of Noah’s Ark. Another highlight is the marble pulpit, which is supported by 13 marble columns intended to represent Jesus and his 12 disciples.
One of the columns is black, which portrays Judas’ betrayal; while another is gray, to represent Thomas’s doubt upon learning of the resurrection. However, the church is perhaps most famous for its religious icons, of which 110 remain on display within its walls.
Many of these decorate the screens of the sanctuary and were painted by a single artist during the 18th century. The oldest and most famous icon is known as the Coptic Mona Lisa. It represents the Virgin Mary and dates from the 8th century.
Many of the original artifacts from the Hanging Church have been removed and are now on display in the nearby Coptic Museum. However, the church remains a highlight of any trip to Old Cairo. Here, visitors can explore the fascinating interior of the church between services or listen to Masses taught in the ancient Coptic liturgical language.
Practical information about the Hanging Church
The church is located in Coptic Cairo and can be easily accessed via the Mar Girgis metro. From there, it is a few steps to the Hanging Church. Tours must be combined with a tour of the Coptic Museum, which is conveniently located just two minutes from the church itself.
The church is open daily from 9:00 am to 5:00 pm, while the Coptic Mass is held from 8:00 am to 11:00 am on Wednesdays and Fridays; and from 9:00 am to 11:00 am on Sundays.
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